# Mechanical or electric group set? **URL:** \ **Category:** Gravel\ **Created:** [12 November 2026 15:39 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885 "2026-11-12T15:39:09Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![davidcook](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/6f9a4e/32.png) [@davidcook](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/u/davidcook)\ **Post date:** [12 November 2026 15:39 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885/1 "2026-11-12T15:39:09Z")
hi all, I am building up a gravel bike with the intent of racing. I have registered for P2A Breve, and currently looking for at least 2 others over the summer (including Wolfe Island as we have a family cottage on the island) I am looking at either mechanical group set or electronic. I will be running 1x. Hydraulic disc breaks. Can decide between the mech or electronic. One one hand mech is so easy to fix in the field if anything goes wrong. But, have always wanted electronic. Frame will handle either. Also, have 50 mm tire clearance. Just looking for some advice from those who have been there done that. Thanks! Also looking for gravel routes around Waterloo. ---
**Author:** ![bike\_daniells](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex011/user_avatar/forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/bike_daniells/32/179_2.png) [@bike\_daniells](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/u/bike_daniells)\ **Post date:** [12 November 2026 16:00 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885/2 "2026-11-12T16:00:37Z")
Assuming a reasonable level mechanical they are both great. Cost is probably as big a factor as anything. I have had more issues with mechanical then electronic over the years, usually from cables snapping in the shifter body, not something you can fix on the road. As for electronic and durability, I have fried one front and one rear derailleur, both were around 8 years old and had been used in CX races, neither were an absolute failure but were suffering from failing motors. There was a steaming nostril race where mud was hitting the cassette and freezing, the derailleurs would still shift through the cassette even if the chain couldn’t. My gravel bike is on year 5, ridden in the winter and all conditions. I have bled the brakes once, changed multiple chains, chainrings etc and it still functions the same as new with countless winter rides. My last mechanical groupset was a pita in the winter as I had to change cables far to often due to corrosion. If you aren’t riding in the wet and salty roads that is less of a consideration. ---
**Author:** ![Thiago](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex011/user_avatar/forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/thiago/32/41_2.png) [@Thiago](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/u/Thiago)\ **Post date:** [12 November 2026 17:05 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885/3 "2026-11-12T17:05:32Z")
You can search gravel routes and filter by distance here: [Waterloo Cycling Club](https://ridewithgps.com/clubs/1180-waterloo-cycling-club/routes?tag_names=Gravel) ---
**Author:** ![davidcook](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/d/6f9a4e/32.png) [@davidcook](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/u/davidcook)\ **Post date:** [12 November 2026 17:13 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885/4 "2026-11-12T17:13:04Z")
the difference in cost is $600, so fairly significant difference. I have never used electronic. I have ridden the same 105 groupset since 2012 on one bike, and last year just finished upgrading my 1985 Steve Bauer Mistral to a Campy mech groupset from the original suntour. My mountain bike (10 years old) is also original mech. I have done all sorts of field repairs, including changing a shifter cable at the side of the road, but, that was a much easier external routed system. These new internal routed systems make that sort of repair difficult at best ---
**Author:** ![RustyHacksaw](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex011/user_avatar/forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/rustyhacksaw/32/182_2.png) [@RustyHacksaw](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/u/RustyHacksaw)\ **Post date:** [12 November 2026 18:01 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885/5 "2026-11-12T18:01:30Z")
I’m in the same boat as Mr. Daniells, way too many issues with my mechanical 105 breaking cables. And it was internal routing, so I always carried a small magnet and a spare cable on long rides and had to change the cable once out in the field, the other times it broke were usually in races, so just made due with two gears, big ring and little ring, lol. When I was looking at replacements I didn’t like the ratios of the SRAM cranks and the 30mm spindle would have meant shaved down BB brackets on my older frame, so I mixed and matched. Shimano GRX 46-11 with a shimano 11-36 12sp cassette, shimano chain, SRAM Rival front and rear derailleurs, shifters and brakes. Took a bit of find tuning to get the front derailleur to shift nicely, but now that it’s dialed, it never fails, ever. No stretched/broken cables. I will never go back to mechanical, but that’s just my experience. I did the same for the mtb, SRAM GX AXS + shifter, Shimano everything else ( 51-11 cassette, 30t chainring, hg+ chain ). I did swap out the GX pulleys for XT pulleys, but that was all it needed, shifts perfectly, everytime, all the time. I always carry a spare battery ( got a couple of the knock-offs from Amazon ) and my little frame bag has a spare CR2032 just in case the shifter dies. ---
**Author:** ![bike\_daniells](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex011/user_avatar/forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/bike_daniells/32/179_2.png) [@bike\_daniells](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/u/bike_daniells)\ **Post date:** [12 November 2026 18:09 UTC](https://forum.waterloocyclingclub.ca/t/mechanical-or-electric-group-set/10885/6 "2026-11-12T18:09:53Z")
My take is if I was back packing, no question I’d be on mechanical. Otherwise electronic is my preference, the ability to shift underload (I know you shouldn’t but..). About 50% of my last 120,000km has been on electronic. Other then user error of not charging a battery, I’ve had zero mechanicals on the road, mtb or gravel and it always shifts cleanly well aside from 12 speed axs on the MTB once the cassette becomes worn. I have warrantied one 105 shifter, and used to snap a cable every 6-8000km on the road. it was at least for 11-speed Shimano a known issue. Having said that if you do your own work and are willing to replace cables the shifting difference between mechanical and electronic is neglible assuming it is all dialed.